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SELECT A TOPIC:
JACK'S STYLE TIPS
TRAVEL TIPS
TOP TEN FAQ'S
THE ALWAYS LIST EDITION
2011 STYLE RESOLUTIONS
SUNDAY WITH JACK
PERSONAL STYLE
GETTING TECHNICAL
OCCASIONS & ETIQUETTE
HOLIDAY HELP
JACK'S STYLE TIPS
Our in-house stylist and go-to answer guy offers up a few easy-to-follow pointers for the season.
"Don't be afraid to mix stripes of different scales—try a bold-stripe tie worn with a shirt in a smaller stripe. It isn't an exact science, it's more like trial and error. Hopefully someone will tell you if you got it wrong."
"Break in a pair of jeans the old fashioned way. A pair of raw selvedge jeans (or at the very least, one with a dark wash) will fade in a way that's distinctly yours—how you wear them and live in them will give them their own DNA."
"Invest in a goes-with-everything, seasonally appropriate blazer. Look for one with a felted collar (which helps it lays closer to the neck) and functional buttons at the cuffs—two hallmarks of a well-made suit."
"A traditional polo and a pair of clean-cut chinos could be seen as a cliché, but upgrading them in a slim, tailored fit makes this classic uniform completely modern. An unexpected shot of color makes it cool."
"Transition your suits into spring—start by swapping your wing tips for a pair of classic bucks, then trade your traditional dress shirt for one in oxford cloth."
"Don't be afraid of red pants—they're not just for the Nantucket set. If you're a little nervous about being able to pull them off, just pair them with pieces like a striped tee and a toggle sweater—they're never fails."
"Add some new collars to your dress shirt drawer. If you're a button-down guy, try a spread collar. Always wear a point collar? Go for a button-down instead. Again, there's no real rules, it's whatever works for you."
 
TRAVEL TIPS
Any good tips for warding off jet lag?
I go on location for our catalog photo shoots all the time, so I feel like I have long-distance traveling down to a science. As soon as I sit down on the plane, I change my watch to the local time of wherever I'm going (I think it mentally helps my internal clock start to shift). I'm also a believer in not drinking on the plane. Although it's awfully tempting sometimes, especially on overnight flights, it really does make you dehydrated and throws off your sleep—which is then compounded by the fact that you're trying to sleep while sitting upright in a really uncomfortable seat. Finally, no napping. Even if you land at 8am and only slept for four hours (and fitfully at that), rough through it and jump into the day with the locals.
What's in your carry-on?
Aside from the usual suspects (passport, bottled water, etc.), I always pack a pair of cashmere socks. I like to take off my shoes in-flight, but I realize that no one wants to see my hairy toes—and cashmere socks are the next best thing to going barefoot. Also, instead of bringing guidebooks, I download travel podcasts. They're a lot less clunky and I can listen to them on the plane—by the time I land, I have my entire itinerary all mapped out.
If you're just packing for an overnight or a weekend away, man up and stow your stuff in a duffel bag of some sort. Otherwise, yes, of course. When you've got a week's worth (or more) of clothing and gear, they're a total back saver. You don't need something with serious cool factor (isn't that an oxymoron, anyway?), just something functional and basically indestructible—most baggage handlers aren't known for their kid gloves. Personally, I like the stuff by Porter and Tumi. They have really clever designs that are obviously meant for traveling, and they have all the right compartments for my iPad, passport, boarding pass, you name it. I use one of Tumi's backpacks as a carry-on and literally never unpack it—I keep all my converters, adapters, headphones and an extra pair of glasses in it at all times, so I'm good to go on a moment's notice.
While I'm all for a good-looking slim-fit jean when you're walking around sightseeing, I'll be honest: They're probably not the best call on a long flight. I'd go with something like a classic-fit chino—it's polished and a lot more comfortable when you're going to be sitting for hours on end (it's probably as close to sitting in your boxers as you can get). Wear it with a washed button-down shirt (it's supposed to look slightly rumpled, so you'll look put together even after sleeping in your clothes) and a suit jacket, which you can store overhead to prevent it from wrinkling. (The flight attendants will even hang it up for you if you're traveling in business class—or so I've heard.)
 
TOP TEN FAQ'S
What's the difference between the Ludlow and Aldridge suits?
They're both great suits, with a few subtle details that distinguish them. The Ludlow is a trim silhouette with a slightly shorter jacket, with a 2½" lapel and a slim, narrow trouser. Our Aldridge suiting is a more classic silhouette, with a 2¾" lapel and a regular straight trouser. I have to say, though, of the two the Ludlow is my personal favorite—it's a bit sleeker and a little more modern.
What's the proper width for suit jacket lapels?
I'd say that 2¾'' is fairly standard these days. If your build is on the slimmer side, you could go down to 2'' but I wouldn't go much thinner than that. Personally, I'm most comfortable in the 2½'' realm—it has a '60s look but seems very current at the same time.
An easy way to tell if your jacket fits correctly is to stand with your arms relaxed at your sides, your hands cupping the bottom of the jacket. If the jacket bunches in your palms, it's too long. Make sure it hugs your shoulders rather than hangs (the latter screams early '90s) and always keep your jacket buttoned when you're standing—it will give you a more tailored, pulled-together look.
There used to be a hard and fast rule that decreed "like with like" (there was another that said "black in the city, brown in the country"). But times have changed and the black and brown thing can definitely be done. That said, it can be done well and it can be done poorly—on the occasions when I've seen it look off, the guys seemed to have gotten dressed in the dark. If you want to wear black shoes with your brown suit, by all means go ahead—just make it completely clear that you're doing it intentionally. That means keeping your color story tight (stick to brown, black and white—that's it). And make sure that you absolutely stay away from colorful surprises like ties or pocket squares.
There are two things at play when it comes to tucking: the shirt style and the rest of the ensemble. In general, dress shirts have a bit of extra fabric in the tail and are meant to be worn tucked in at all times. A more casual shirt, with a squared-off, even hem, can be worn untucked.
Beyond that there aren't any proper rules, but I would say with jeans, cords and chinos, tucking in your shirt is optional; and with dress pants, it's necessary. Personally, I prefer to tuck my shirts in when I'm wearing blazers or sportcoats—even when I'm wearing jeans or a casual pant—and I leave them untucked with more casual, washed button-down style shirts or polos.
It's a matter of personal preference: Each time you wash a pair of jeans, the color will fade slightly, and all denim will shrink to some degree—so it really depends on what sort of look you want your jeans to have. I like the saturated color of my jeans, so I try to wash them as little as possible and rely on spot-cleaning for any real stains. If you want to wash yours with any frequency, you can minimize shrinking by using cold water and laying them flat to dry; if you're concerned about preserving the color, turn them inside out and use detergent sparingly. I always hang my jeans to dry, but if you want to throw yours in the machine, I suggest using the lowest setting possible. Want a more in-depth answer? Check out our handy denim care guide.
Leave the Imelda Marcos type of shoe wardrobe to your girlfriend—most guys can get away with the bare minimum (which means less decision-making in the morning). Without doubt, you should have a nice pair of black wing tips or oxfords—you can wear them to work with a jacket and tie or with jeans and a sweater on the weekends. I think a casual desert boot is a good thing to have for every day (my go-to is our suede MacAlister—it goes nicely with everything from jeans and cords to chinos), and I'd recommend a heavy, all-weather boot like a pair of Red Wings for winter and rain. Add a pair of classic tennis shoes (I happen to like Jack Purcells or Chuck Taylors) and you should be pretty much set for any occasion.
Get an idea of what the groom is wearing—if he's not wearing a tux, then neither should you. As a general rule, you can't go wrong with a tropical-weight suit in either solid navy or charcoal grey. Pair it with a white broadcloth shirt and a dark-colored tie and you're good to go. (During the summer, you can trade darker suits for khaki or other light colors.) However, if the invitation reads black tie, be prepared to break out the penguin suit.
I'd say never. For the most part, I try to ignore (or at least re-interpret) those old menswear traditions. But this is actually something I feel pretty strongly about—hats, like scarves and tie bars, should serve a purpose. Wearing a hat outside to keep your head warm makes sense, but inside it doesn't. Maybe I'm just old-fashioned when it comes to hats, but I say hats off inside.
It really depends on your build—a three-button jacket can help a tall guy look more balanced, while two-button jackets can actually make short guys look less so. Both styles are considered equally wearable, so choose whichever looks best on you.
 
THE ALWAYS LIST EDITION
The handful of essential items that, no matter what the season, every man should have in his closet...
Spectacles, wallet and watch
Think clean, classic and functional—they don't need to be tricky to do the job they were designed to do (your phone probably has all the bells and whistles you need, anyway). There's something nice about an item with a single practical purpose.
A pair of goes-with-everything chukka boots
You can literally wear them with almost everything else in your closet—yeah, they look great with chinos and shorts, but they also look good dressed up with a suit or paired with jeans and a sportcoat.
The perfect tee
Leave the faded band tees to the college-age crew—and the same goes for bumper sticker tees (save your opinion for your Facebook status update). Opt for a clean, classic style and make sure it fits well because, after all, it's only a T-shirt.
A go-to pair of jeans
Every guy needs that one perfect pair—choose a slim fit with a dark wash, and keep the fit slim and modern so you can dress them up with a sportcoat or throw them on for the weekend. Find the right pair and it's like salt for your wardrobe (they make everything look better).
Clean-cut chinos
They can go pretty much anywhere, from the office to the backyard barbecue (just make sure they're trim and tailored: There's no excuse for dumpy chinos anymore). Also, chinos can get boring pretty quickly, so take license to play with some color: blue, green, even pink—yes, pink (trust me)—all add a nice pop to an otherwise expected look.
Classic sneakers
No bells and no whistles, keep them clean and simple—you want a pair that you can wear everywhere but the gym. I'm partial to white, but any color works as long as it's somewhat muted. Make sure you keep 'em clean and scuff free if you plan on wearing them to the office.
A great bag
It's not a purse and it's not a gym duffel (it should look manly, not look like it smells manly). It should be neutral enough that you don't have to think about whether or not it's appropriate, either for work or the weekend, and it should be sturdy enough to handle whatever it is you plan on throwing in it—think practical and stylish.
Good-looking off-duty shirt
Because even though you may be off the clock, you're not off the hook when it comes to looking pulled together. Whether it's a washed shirt with a great tartan, a utilitarian-inspired chambray or something in between, it can add a nice sense of texture and depth to your look and is a nice departure from the jeans-and-tee combo.
Classic dress shirts
Wear one that's freshly pressed with an impeccable fit and there's no way you can go wrong. Classic white is always appropriate (try some color in your tie to keep it from skewing boring), but a nice stripe or check works too.
A great-fitting suit
Because an impeccably tailored, sleekly cut suit can instantly transform any guy into a powerful, charismatic man of importance. It's that easy. (It'll also keep you covered for work, weddings, parties and pretty much anything else in between). And I've said it before: taking your suit to a tailor to tweak the fit will make it the best money you ever spent on your wardrobe, whether the suit cost $400 or $4,000.
The unmentionables (socks and boxers)
Keep 'em clean and constantly rotate—it kind of goes without saying.
An all-weather jacket
Because the right outerwear will safeguard your clothes without sacrificing style—and in fact, it can even lend a sense of dignity to your everyday look (there's a reason those dapper dons from the 1920s commanded respect, and it didn't only have to do with the way they did business). The right jacket doesn't need to be high-tech or trendy, but it does need to look sharp, fit well and, most important, be weather appropriate.
The necessary details (belts, ties and pocket squares)
Sometimes the smallest touches make the biggest impact—you may think that no one notices them, but they do. They're also the details that set you apart.
 
2011 STYLE RESOLUTIONS
This month, I'm laying down the law (yup, it's that time of year again). But instead of suggesting the next to impossible (six-pack abs by March, for instance), I'm going to propose something that you won't want to completely abandon by January 31st: Dress better. Here's how (trust me, it takes a lot less discipline than getting in five fruits and veggies every day)...
Take your suits to the tailor (even if they fit you).
Because unless you sprung for bespoke, it's safe to assume that they don't fit you as well as they could. Any off-the-rack suit, no matter how expensive (or cheap), can be improved upon—and a good tailor can take one look at it and tell you immediately what needs to be done to take it from an average fit that works on any 40 Reg. to one that's tailored just for you. It might be just a minor nip or tuck, but it'll make even a $400 suit look like you spent $4,000 and a $4,000 suit look like the best money you ever spent.
It's a small detail, but those are usually the ones that make the biggest impact.
Your $300 wing tips deserve a $30 shoe tree (aka footwear life preservers). It'll help preserve the shape, keep deep creases from forming and absorb moisture (not to mention make them smell better). Give 'em a good spit polish every now and then and they'll last you a lifetime.
Your watch doesn't need to tell you what phase the moon is in or double as a stock ticker (your phone probably has an app for that, anyway). It just needs to tell you if you're going to be late for work.
Make a little extra effort now and then. Trust me, people will notice.
The shiny fabric and poor fit of most rentals is bad enough, but do you really want to wear a jacket (not to mention pants) that who knows how many other guys sweated in before it got to you? The answer is no. And while it's true that the man makes the clothes, it's more true that there is nothing classier than a guy in a great-fitting tux. Even if you only trot it out once a year, it's one of the wisest wardrobe investments a man can make.
Stockpile some classic dress shirts that will go with anything (a few solid white ones and a couple blue-and-white-striped ones should do the trick), get 'em pressed and stow them in your desk drawer. That way, if you spill coffee on yourself right before a big presentation or a last-minute dinner invitation lands in your inbox, you'll have a clean, crisp shirt ready to go. It may sound a little OCD, but it's better to be known as the guy who's always pulled together than the guy who wears rumpled, stained shirts.
Going to the airport may be more like a series of torturous exercises than the glamorous affair it used to be, but that's no excuse to wear sweats. I'm not suggesting you wear a three-piece suit and a straw boater like your grandfather might have, but let's leave the velour track suits at home (actually, let's not even walk out of the store with them). A nice pair of jeans and a button-down with a sportcoat or sweater looks totally polished but is still casually comfortable—and far more likely to score you an upgrade.
While I don't believe in certain sartorial rules (I ignore the "no white after Labor Day" decree every single year), I do think you need to be sensible. When the temperature dips, reach for heavier fabrics like tweed and herringbone; as the mercury rises, swap them out for chino, madras and linen. But remember to think ahead too: That lightweight blazer might be sold out if you wait till it gets hot, so grab it when you see it. Just let it cool its heels in your closet till the weather cooperates.
You know the ones I'm talking about—they're the love child of a dress shoe and a sneaker with a comfortable foam sole, and they're just awful. Seriously, it's the worst kind of mash-up there is. Repeat after me: A shoe can be a sneaker, and a shoe can be a wing tip or a loafer, but it cannot (or should not) be everything at once. I don't care how comfortable they are, if you have a pair, toss them immediately and get a pair of shoes with a single purpose.
 
SUNDAY WITH JACK
We asked our resident style guru (and father to a newborn son, Graham) a few questions about something other than fashion. We figured he knows so much about all things sartorial that there was a pretty good chance he'd be a font of knowledge on other things too. After all, Jack does know best...Here, a (not-so-) lazy Sunday with Jack.
Where do you go for a great cup of joe?
Iris Cafe on Columbia Place in Brooklyn Heights. It's this really charming spot on a nice quiet block, and they serve Stumptown coffee, from the Portland-based roasters—those folks really know their coffee. I get mine iced, size large, with milk and no sugar. If I'm up all night with Graham and need something stronger, I make it a red eye (coffee with a shot of espresso).
Weather permitting, the front stoop.
The Metro section of the New York Times—I go straight to the Complaint Box, which is this sort of rants-and-raves soapbox where people share their pet peeves.
I'm off playlists at the moment and back on to complete albums—without the shuffle. I think it's refreshing to hear the lineup in the order that the artist intended. Right now, it's all Talking Heads, specifically More Songs About Buildings and Food and Remain in Light. Jonathan Richman's I, Jonathan is also getting a lot of airtime.
Jack the Horse Tavern—it's completely unpretentious, with a vibe that's sort of a cross between a pub and a country inn, and the food is nice and simple. I order scrambled eggs with toast and Red Bliss home fries.
The new Brooklyn Bridge Park—there's a promenade with amazing views of the NYC waterfront and about as much wildlife as you're going to find in a city. There's also an entire acre of playgrounds for Graham to explore once he gets a little older.
I've never really been into the shave thing, but I get my hair cut at Astor Place. It's a low-key, third-generation barbershop, and it's practically an institution in New York. Valentino is my guy.
Holler and Squall on Atlantic. They have a great collection of antiques, but I go there especially for the vintage industrial lamps—they're rewired for modern fixtures and are just really cool looking.
Fascati on Henry. It doesn't look like much from the outside, but it's arguably some of the best New York pizza there is, with a razor-thin crust. Plus, I like that it's been in the family for a couple of generations.
Seaport Flowers at Hicks and Montague. They make really sweet, low-key arrangements that are always tasteful and usually have an unexpected little twist that Carmen, my wife, really appreciates.
I do it myself, on rare occasions only. I just wipe them down with a damp cloth, put some shoe trees in and go at them with a good horsehair brush for about five or six minutes. I finish it off by buffing them with a flannel cloth, and every so often I'll use a paste wax if I'm really after a spit-polish shine.
Ramon's on Mott and Houston in NoHo. He tailored my suit when I got married and everything else ever since. He's amazing.
 
PERSONAL STYLE
Can I wear a black shirt with a black tie, or is that a sartorial no-no?
The black-on-black combo is a tricky one—it can look downright deadly (good deadly, not bad deadly) if done well, but you'll need to follow a couple of rules in order to pull it off. First, make sure your shirt is on the new side—after a certain number of washes, black shirts tend to fade and can take on a weird, greenish cast. This will pretty much kill the look you're going for. Also, because this kind of look is more modern, be sure that both your shirt and your suit are impeccably tailored—a slim silhouette has way more of an impact than a baggy one, and it gives your look a bit of a classic spin that's nice. Last, try wearing a sterling-silver tie bar—it'll reinforce the fact that you're actually wearing a tie.
I really like the woven watch straps that J.Crew sells, but I don't wear a watch. Do you think it would be acceptable to wear a watch strap as a bracelet without a watch attached to it?
Personally, I think the coolest part of modern menswear is its history in functionality. My favorite details and accessories are the ones that serve some kind of purpose, like the pocket square, the tie bar and the cuff link. The watch strap without the watch, on the other hand, just doesn't make sense to me. Maybe it's time to get a watch—it never hurts to know what time it is.
The navy prep school blazer is a total classic—I love the look and was actually on the hunt for one myself not too long ago. I was having a hard time finding just the right fit (they were all too boxy), so after several months of searching, I finally bought the J.Crew Ludlow blazer and took it to a tailor to have the buttons switched out (I took the brass buttons off an ill-fitting second-hand blazer I picked up for five bucks at Goodwill).
There are a couple of schools of thought on this one. Some believe that shorter men (or short-legged men) should avoid them, and vice versa, but it's really a matter of personal preference. Some guys shun them because they think they're old-fashioned, but I think they can be quite modern and I also appreciate their functionality—aside from nicely catching the odd piece of loose change, they're actually designed to add weight to a pair of pants in order to give them shape and make them hang nicely. Which brings up another issue: As a design element, cuffs typically work especially well on pleated pants, so there is an argument that flat-front pants should not be cuffed. Not true. Cuffs are an appropriate option on both pleated and flat-front trousers—the only pants that should never be finished with a cuff are tuxedo pants (even if they are pleated). So basically, whether you should go cuff or no cuff is completely up to you. When I do opt for cuffs, however, I usually ask for one that's 1¼", if that helps.
The linen Ludlow is a great-looking suit in one of my favorite fits—it's an old-school classic, but it's modern enough that you'll be able to wear it for years to come. That said, if you're trying to build a wardrobe as opposed to adding to an existing one, I might suggest you consider going with a wool Ludlow suit instead. Linen is great for warm weather, but you're pretty much limited to wearing it in the spring and summer (unless you're lucky enough to live in the tropics). But our Italian wool fabric is four-season, so you can (really, trust me) wear it all year-round. Wool is also a bit more versatile—and a little less high-maintenance—than wrinkle-prone linen. If you like the idea of your suit having some sort of texture to make it stand out (in a good way), you might want to check out our wool herringbone suits. At the end of the day, however, you really can't go wrong with either, so you should pick whatever looks and feels the best on you.
Absolutely. Madras is a great staple for spring and summer—it's lightweight and it arguably looks better the minute it gets slightly rumpled. It's also a great way to breathe new life into your chinos and jeans after a long, dark winter (the warm-weather answer to the flannel, it's a colorful way to turn up the volume of your wardrobe—just make sure it's not too loud). The trick is to make sure you give it an urban edge: Look for trimmer, more modern silhouettes (try our tailored shirts or club shorts—both have a slightly more narrow cut) and ground it with neutral solids. It should go without saying, of course, that you ought to wear only one item of madras clothing at a time. If you're not ready to commit to the madras thing whole hog, dip a toe in the waters with a madras tie. The truly cautious, however, can always just stick to the kind of madras that comes in a glass at cocktail hour.
The most basic rule of thumb is to make sure the colors in your tie complement those in your shirt. Obviously, if you're wearing a white shirt, anything goes—except for novelty ties, which never, ever go. Ever. For stripe or patterned shirts, make sure the colors coordinate, then make sure the patterns do too (meaning they should never be the same size). For example: A striped tie with a striped shirt works as long as you mix bold with subtle—bold stripe tie, subtle stripe shirt. Or subtle striped tie, bold-stripe shirt. I would definitely have a more classic wool style that goes with everything in your arsenal, and you could also add a narrower style in stripes. The important thing to remember with patterned ties is to keep the rest of your look clean and simple or things can start to look too costumey.
Some might argue the only time you should roll up your shirt sleeves is when there's hard work at hand, but I pretty much roll mine up anytime I'm not wearing a jacket—it makes a dress shirt seem a little more casual and slightly nonchalant. There isn't really a trick; I just sort of roll them a few times and simultaneously push them up until they're right at the elbow. Channel your inner Paul Newman and you'll be just fine.
Old-school linen shirts were meant to be worn boxy and loose, but as a general rule, today's silhouettes on the whole are cut on the slimmer side—and the linen shirt is by no means exempt. So unless you want to look like you raided your dad's resort wardrobe, I'd suggest a shirt with clean lines and a trim cut. Don't be fooled into thinking that a linen shirt has to be boxy to breathe—by virtue of its nature, linen is cool to the touch, so even a shirt with a slimmer cut will act like your own personal air-conditioning system.
I know exactly what you need: a Barbour® Bedale jacket. It's timeless, ageless and practically seasonless. I guarantee you it's something you'll wear for the rest of your life.
Congratulations! And I definitely know what you mean—most of the baby bags I found were either strewn with bunnies or looked like I'd left the house with my wife's bag by mistake (even if they were positioned as dad bags). What I'd suggest is looking for a messenger-style bag with plenty of pockets (some for baby's things, some for yours); just make sure it has room for a portable changing pad. Another great alternative is to repurpose a sportsman's bag—they always have tons of pockets (intended for game or fowl, they can easily hold a bottle or two) and they almost always come with a waterproof lining (never a bad idea when babies are involved). You might want to check out our Brady® Severn fishing bag—it's been around since the 1920s and is about as manly as it gets, and it has a removable rubber lining. Personally, I use the tin cloth tote from Filson®—it has a waxed outside with a nylon interior that's supereasy to clean and has tons of pockets.
It's definitely a look that's more Savile Row than Silicon Valley, but with today's slimmer silhouettes, it has a certain rakish panache that I think looks really modern. And in addition to adding a touch of gravitas to a two-piece suit, the vest is a handy way to keep your tie in place—not to mention that it has the added benefit of making shirtsleeves still look "business as usual" if you shed your jacket.
Four-in-hand—period. It's the least stuffy knot there is, and the fact that it's supposed to be slightly imperfect makes it completely effortless (even if it takes you five tries to get it just right). Something about it just makes everything more charming—it's never ever wrong, the proportion's always right and it's not complicated. It's pretty much the only knot you'll ever need.
There really aren't any. You can wear a double-breasted overcoat with a single-breasted suit jacket and vice versa, and you can wear it either over a suit, with jeans and a sportcoat, and oftentimes even a tux. It's really a matter of using your judgment—if it looks OK to you, then it's probably OK.
Business casual can be tricky—and it seems that lately, it's simply become code for sloppy officewear; most guys hear the term and show up in oversize chinos and a blazer and think they've nailed it. To really pull it off right, you want to wear one part business and one part casual: Try the suit trouser with a crisp button-down and a cardigan, or wear your suit jacket with inky, dark denim (cut slim, with no signs of wear) and shoes similar to what you'd wear with a suit. More than anything, however, it's really about fit: Keep it slim and fitted and you're probably good to go. A guy wearing slim, well-fitting jeans with a sportcoat is always going to look more pulled together than a guy in a too-big three-piece suit.
It's not the easiest undertaking in the world, but yes, it is possible and there are just two things you need to remember in order to pull it off: 1) dress for the weather, and 2) dress for your location. For the first part, recognize that it is cold/snowy/slushy/grim and dress accordingly; if you're worried about wearing your suit with a pair of waterproof boots, trust me—you'll look like an even bigger jerk if you wear Italian leather loafers in a snowstorm. As for the second part: Those techy Gore-tex® gloves are great on the ski slope but look out of place in an urban environment, so spring for a pair of lined leather gloves that look sharp with overcoats and other office-appropriate wear. Follow suit for hats and scarves and replace your topcoat with a weather-appropriate one and you should be able to brave the winter months warmly but without sacrificing style.
It's definitely not just you—because of the trend toward slimmer silhouettes in suiting, ties are also getting trimmed down (it's all about proportion). A good rule of thumb to go by is this: the narrower the lapel of your suit, the narrower your tie should be too.
If you're looking for a great suit but can't drop a ton of cash, I'd suggest opting for four-season wool—it can be worn year-round, so you get the biggest bang for your buck. And consider choosing one in a heathered charcoal—it's the most versatile color in suiting, so you can wear it pretty much anywhere and always look appropriate. It's also an easy suit to break up and wear as separates—try pairing the jacket with jeans and loafers, or wear the pants with a chambray shirt and cool white sneakers (just make sure they're clean, with no scuffs).
Double-breasted suits often get a bad rap, but they're having a moment right now. The Ludlow version we have is definitely a major update, with higher armholes, slimmer sleeves and less fabric through the body. I'd suggest wearing it with raw jeans and a rumpled shirt to avoid any Captain and Tennille comments; and if you're under 5'10", I might reconsider it altogether—it's a lot of suit for a smaller frame.
 
GETTING TECHNICAL
How do I fold a pocket square?
I've found the best way is to keep folding it in half (turning it 90 degrees each time) until it is the right size to fit snugly in the pocket. Be sure to iron each fold into place so it stays put and doesn't have any irregular corners. Personally, I have given up on actually using my pocket squares as anything but decoration—which is why I carry another in my back pocket for any real hanky emergencies.
I see shirts that are described as 80s, 100s, and 120s—what's the difference? Is one softer than the other?
These numbers actually refer to the yarn size that the fabric is woven with. The higher the number, the finer the yarn (and usually the more expensive the cloth). If it is softness that you're looking for, I would suggest you try any of our washed shirts—these undergo a special wash process that makes them supersoft and comfortable.
Mesh lined means that the short has a brief-style mesh lining, whereas fully lined means that the entire short is lined in mesh. And unlined, of course, means that there is no lining whatsoever—it's just you and your shorts.
Those are basting stitches, which are basically guidelines used by the tailor to craft the suit. Because they're associated with hand tailoring, they're the sign of an especially well-made suit. They also help keep the seams straight during shipping. A good tug should take care of removing them. (If you were going to have the suit altered, however, you might want to leave them in for the tailor.)
There isn't a trick per se, but you should make sure you're layering the right layers: fine-knit sweaters like merino or cashmere should be worn with dress shirts, which tend to be made from a more refined fabric. Heavier wool sweaters or what we call third-piece sweaters can be worn with more casual shirts, like oxford cloth or even utility shirts. If you still feel too bulky, you might want to check out our new slim-fit shirts—they're about 1 1/2 " slimmer in the chest, waist and bottom opening, so they should give you a really nice trim, tailored look and will slip easily underneath any sweater.
Definitely not, but which ones you should button depends on how many buttons the suit has. If you're sporting a two-button suit, button the top button and only the top button—never the bottom one. If it's a three-button suit, you only ever want to button the middle. Also, keep in mind that while you can unbutton your jacket when sitting, you should keep it buttoned while standing—it makes the jacket appear more tailored, so your whole look appears more put together.
Probably not as often as you think. For lighter-weight suits, just a couple of times a year is fine; heavier fabrics like wool flannel tend to hold what I call "the funk" a little more tightly, so they should be cleaned more frequently (and can more easily withstand the exposure to chemical solvents). Regardless of how often you drop your suit at the dry cleaners, always send the jacket and pants together to ensure that the color and integrity of the fabric wears equally.
There's some speculation as to why they're even there in the first place. One theory is that an appearance-obsessed warlord from way back in the day (some say Napoleon, others Frederick the Great) had his soldiers put on uniforms to dissuade them from wiping their sweaty brows—or runny noses—with their sleeves; another is that they made it possible to slip ruffled shirt cuffs through sleeves without wrinkling them. Either way, tailors on Savile Row seem to have been making jackets with working buttonholes since the beginning of time, and now they're considered one of the easiest-to-spot tells of a bespoke suit. And while it's true that nonworking buttons are purely ornamental, they do have one huge advantage over their functional brothers: They make having a suit tailored much, much easier (if you really want the buttons on your jacket to work, you can always take it to a tailor—one worth his salt will be able to make it look like it came that way).
Definite yea. Aside from saving your dress shirts from the inevitable pit stains, I also appreciate how they make white shirts whiter and a little less see-through (especially effective when you're wearing a suit jacket). Just be sure you don't see the actual undershirt peeking out from beneath, which is pretty much the guy version of visible panty lines.
First, measure around the middle part of your neck (the tape should hit right at your Adam's apple), keeping the tape a little loose, then add " to the number. Next, hold the tape at the center of the back of your neck and measure across your shoulders to your elbow and down to your wrist. To make sure your sleeve is long enough to allow ease of movement, keep your elbow slightly bent (pretend you have your thumb hooked through a belt loop). The total measurement is your sleeve length. Try and be as precise as possible—of course, you can always stop by your nearest J.Crew store and have an associate take your measurements too.
I always try to wear my jacket on the plane so I don't have to worry about packing it (and it never hurts to dress up a little to go to the airport, either). But if you want to pack it, make sure you turn it inside out first—putting the inner lining on the outside will help protect it from wrinkles. Fold the jacket along the center back, then fold it again until it's in quarters. Next, place the suit at the bottom of your suitcase, making sure to lay it the full width to prevent bunching, then set the trousers and any other items on top to keep it from moving around. When you get to your hotel, be sure to unpack and hang the suit right away (you can hang it in the bathroom with a hot shower running to remove any minor creases that may have formed during travel).
Any good tailor should be able to talk to you about what he's doing in language that's easy to follow, but it never hurts to know a few basic technical terms about suiting, either—a few that might come in particularly handy are below (along with a few that you'll probably never ever use but are worth knowing anyway).

Besom pockets: Pockets that are cut into the fabric, usually covered with a flap.
Canvas: A sturdy cloth layer between the outer fabric and the inner lining of a suit jacket that helps prevent the suiting fabric from stretching out of shape.
Drape: The way fabric hangs on the body.
Drop: This denotes a suit's shape—for instance, a "drop six" means a trouser waist six inches smaller than the chest of the jacket.
Hand: The feel that the finish of the fabric imparts when held in the hand.
Jigger: The single internal button in a double-breasted jacket (which should always be fastened).
Kissing buttons: Denotes the way buttons on a cuff are sewn so they slightly overlap.
Scye: The armhole of the jacket, the size and shape of which often determines the overall fit.
Ticket pocket: The third pocket on a suit jacket, found a few inches above the right-hand hip pocket.
Turn-ups: Another term for cuffs (commonly used by the Brits).
Vent: The slit in the bottom rear (or tail) of the jacket.
It's all about proportions—getting them right is the single most important factor in getting the best fit. If you're shorter and on the slimmer side, opt for a style that's cut more narrowly; if you're taller and broader, you can skew more traditional. No matter how narrow or broad your shoulders are, the jacket should hug—not hang—from them; altering the shoulder construction is a major headache for even the best of tailors and it will cost you, so that should be the first thing you look at when trying on a jacket.
I'm not tall, either—I clock in at 5'9"-ish (though my NY state drivers license says 5'10"). I definitely know where you're coming from. Try starting with a shorter jacket; there's a subtle difference in the measurements, but it can make a huge difference in the fit. (If you don't like the idea of buying a short size because of an ego thing, get over it: Jacket size isn't written on the outside like it is on a pair of 501s...And trust me, there are a lot of guys who buy a 40 regular who would actually look a hundred times better in a 40 short.) As for pants, look for a pair with a high inseam, which will translate into a pair without a saggy crotch, and opt for little to no break in the leg—a puddle of fabric around your ankles only makes you look mini.
 
OCCASIONS & ETIQUETTE
Is a linen suit too informal for a destination wedding? (I'm the groom.)
As far as suiting materials go, linen is considered the most casual—something to consider if your wedding is on the dressy side (for a guest, I think it would be totally fine). If you're into the idea of a light-colored suit but want something a little more formal, consider a chino one instead—it's crisp and classic and just as cool and lightweight as linen, so you still won't get hot under the collar (or on the dance floor, for that matter).
Is there such a thing as a fail-safe gift?
Honestly, you really can't go wrong with a gift card—it's one size fits all. That said, my go-to gift is always cashmere. No one dislikes cashmere or can ever have enough of it, and it's available at every price point. Even if the gift is as simple as a pair of socks, cashmere makes the recipient feel like they're being spoiled.
Personally, I don't think that looking well dressed should be a competition. Instead of trying to outdress all the other guys, why not shoot for looking your best? Maybe swap out your standard black suit for one in a really rich navy color (we have a navy herringbone suit that has a really great texture—it's a subtle nuance, but the effect is really striking), or add some debonair accessories, like a sterling-silver tie clip or a pocket square. When it really comes down to it, however, the best way to stand out from the crowd is with your sparkling conversation and witty repartee.
Depends on what you have planned. If you're a movies-and-pizza kind of guy, you can probably get away with a pair of dark jeans and a nice button-down; if you're taking her to the theater or a five-star restaurant, a suit definitely works. Just make sure you feel comfortable (and that everything is clean and fits well) and you'll be fine. I'd say the most important thing is to remember that style doesn't end at the fit of your suit (or your jeans, for that matter). Not to sound like your grandmother, but behaving like a true gentleman will impress her more than good tailoring—at the end of the day, a well-dressed jerk is still a jerk.
I pretty much dismiss all of those old-school fashion rules out of hand...so yes, you can wear white after September 6th. That said, I would shelve the pure whites and choose off-white or creamy, putty-toned shades instead—they have more of a hardy, rugged feel than their brilliant white cousin, which makes them seem more appropriate for cooler days. Wheat-colored denim is a fail-safe choice, and it looks great paired with the olive and tweedy brown hues that are more typical for fall. White blazers, however, even if they happen to be slightly more creamy in color, are more seasonal and best suited to summer months—or the tropics.
It's not so much a calendar thing as it is a temperature thing—feel free to break it out whenever it gets cool enough so that you?re not sweating the minute you put it on.
 
HOLIDAY HELP
Any ideas for a holiday hostess gift? I’m tired of showing up to parties with the same bottle of wine or champagne as everyone else.
Whatever you do, don’t arrive empty-handed—even if you just bring a small token of appreciation, some sort of nod to the host or hostess’s efforts is always considered proper etiquette. If you want to bring something unexpected, do a little research: Maybe she collects vintage matchbooks (which can be found on eBay for a few bucks), or perhaps he has a penchant for a hard-to-find hot sauce that they happen to sell at the corner bodega. A personal touch always feels like you went the extra mile, even if it didn’t cost a lot. My default gift is one of those new instant cameras—they’re not too expensive, everyone always has fun taking snaps (it can be a great icebreaker if you don’t know a lot of the guests) and extra film can usually be found wherever camera supplies are sold, so it’s a gift that really keeps on giving.
I just got married and I’m spending the holidays with my wife’s parents for the first time—any gift ideas for my father-in-law?
That can be tricky—I’ll assume you’ve already won him over, but you don’t want to presume too much familial familiarity too quickly. I’d go with a classic robe and some shearling-lined slippers, à la Ward Cleaver—it’s a cool retro nod that seems personal without being overly so (if you feel like you hit the dad-in-law lottery, you could even monogram the robe). Added bonus? It’s a surefire way to guarantee he won’t come downstairs in his holey boxers—that’s something no son-in-law should ever see, no matter how long you’ve been in the family.
Dinner at a fancy restaurant seems to be pretty much every guy’s go-to, and I don’t think there’s a girl out there who doesn’t love to get dressed up for an evening of being wined and dined. That said, one of my most memorable dates with my now wife was a midnight screening of Christmas Vacation—we got drinks beforehand, instead of after, and although it wasn’t anything fancy it was one of our all-time greats (and one we try to repeat every year). I think if you can find some cool version of anything that’s clichéd, it’s worth talking about. Bottom line? As long as she has fun, it’ll be a smash hit.
Unlike Halloween, a holiday party isn’t an excuse to put on a costume. Unless they’re part of your everyday wardrobe, leave the pants/ties/socks with embroidered wreathes or reindeer in your closet. Don’t feel like you’re required to wear some combo of red and green. And if you’re going to go with tartan, get in and get out—opt for one quick hit (a tie, for instance), not head to toe. Trust me, it’s just as holiday appropriate (and cleaner and more sophisticated) to wear a black suit jacket with a crisp white shirt and dark jeans—if you want to mix in some color, try dark green socks or an always-regal dark purple tie. If that feels too pedestrian or everyday, you can make things a little dressier by opting for a black tux jacket. And if you’re feeling daring, swap out the white button-down for a chambray shirt.
I’d wear a down vest—because of the lack of sleeves, it won’t mess up your sportcoat the way a puffer jacket would. If possible, it should be a traditional nylon style, with clean lines and preferably in black—you don’t want it to be the first thing people notice about you (and if it has lift tickets dangling from the pocket, it’s not appropriate). I’ll be honest: It’s not a particularly classic look, but it gets the job done and you won’t be miserable while you move from party to party.
It may sound like another cliché (and by the way, there's a reason they're clichés: they always work), but my go-to the past few years has been jewelry—not some found-it-next-to-the-food-court piece of jewelry, but an estate piece that's a little bit off the beaten path and completely unexpected. (Estate may sound fancy, but it doesn't have to mean expensive—it's basically just vintage, aka old). My wife is really fond of the one-of-a-kind feel of the pieces and the fact that they have a history (even if it's not hers), and I actually enjoy the hunt, hitting cool little antique shops instead of an overcrowded mall. If you're in NYC, my favorite is a place called Doyle and Doyle—it's in this great neighborhood on the Lower East Side, and they always have an amazing selection. I got my wife's engagement ring, wedding ring and pretty much every other gift of jewelry there. If you aren't in the city, you can find them online at doyledoyle.com . Prefer to buy in person? You can always strike gold at your local flea market or antique store too.
I answer a lot of emails from guys wanting to know what the perfect gift is for a wide variety of occasions, so I decided to go public this month and round up some can't-miss ideas in honor of Mother's Day. And to answer Dave C. in Ohio, yes, you need to get your mom something—the woman literally gave you life. You can spring for a bunch of flowers, but here are a few other ideas based on what I'm getting all the most-important moms in my life this year:
My wife, Carmen, has recently become obsessed with Colonie, a new restaurant in Brooklyn that opened up just around the corner from our apartment. They recently started serving brunch, so on the day of, I'll surprise her (assuming she doesn't read this) by ending our ritual Sunday morning family stroll with a stop there. And because it's her first Mother's Day ever (Graham was born last May), I want to do something extra special, so I'm going to give her the A.R. Trapp Troubadour sunglasses she's had her eye on for a while now. She's tall and slim, so she'll be able to pull off the chunky menswear look no problem, and the tortoise frames will look great with her red hair. I know she'll wear them like crazy all summer long.
My mom, Peggy, usually just gets a card and a phone call, but now that I have a kid of my own, I get it. So this year she's getting a Thomas Mason® shirt—they make some of the very best shirting fabrics in the world and, like my mom, they're super classic. I'll shake it up a little and give her one with tuxedo-style detailing so it's a bit unexpected but still something she can wear for years.
Katie, my sister, just became a mom in January. I know from recent experience how consumed new parents can get with their newborns, so I want to get her something that's all about her. She freaks for our cashmere (she has a closet full of it), so I'm going to give her our short-sleeve featherweight cashmere cardigan. It's perfect for summer, and I'll get it in a curveball color so I know it's not a repeat of something she already has.
 

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